Standard kitchen unit sizes run from 300mm to 1000mm wide for base cabinets, at a depth of 560mm to 600mm. The finished worktop sits at around 900mm. Those increments govern almost every kitchen layout, which is why it pays to know them before you start planning.

At Mayfair Kitchens we read those dimensions against how the room will actually be used. A cupboard that fits a gap is not automatically the best use of it, because drawers, larders, appliances, and everyday access all change the answer.

Standard Kitchen Unit Sizes at a Glance

Most cabinetry follows a consistent set of measurements, and widths vary far more than depths or heights. Individual ranges differ, so treat these as starting points.

•     Base unit widths: 300mm to 1000mm, usually in 100mm increments
•     Base unit depth: 560mm to 600mm before the worktop overhang
•     Worktop depth: around 600mm, or 650mm for deeper runs
•     Finished worktop height: around 900mm
•     Plinth height: around 150mm
•     Wall unit depth: 300mm to 350mm
•     Wall unit heights: 575mm to 900mm
•     Tall and larder units: 1950mm to 2300mm, with 2150mm a common choice
•     Pull-out larder width: commonly 300mm or 400mm
•     Corner base unit: around 900mm by 900mm

Base Units

Base units carry the worktop and do most of the work. The carcass is typically 720mm tall on 150mm legs, which is how the worktop arrives at 900mm.

Standard kitchen unit sizes and what each width holds

A 300mm cabinet suits trays, bottles, or a slim pull-out, though the narrow opening makes it awkward for bulky cookware. The 600mm unit is the workhorse of any kitchen. It takes a sink, a drawer stack, or most integrated appliances, which are built to that width for exactly this reason.

Wider units come into their own for pans and crockery, especially fitted with drawers rather than doors. But wider does not always mean more useful. A very wide cupboard with deep shelves becomes somewhere things get stacked and forgotten, so internal fittings matter as much as external size.

If an island is part of your plan, our guide to kitchen island dimensions covers how depth, seating, and circulation change the sums.

Wall Units

Wall units run 300mm to 350mm deep and 575mm to 900mm high. The shallow depth protects headroom, and cabinets that are too deep make the prep area feel closed in.

Height is the more interesting decision. Taller units reach closer to the ceiling and claim storage from a part of the room that usually goes unused. The cost is accessibility, so plan by frequency of use. Everyday glasses, mugs, and ingredients belong within comfortable reach, and the rest can go up.

Tall Units, Larders and Pantries

Tall units usually measure 1950mm to 2300mm high and around 600mm wide, while narrow pull-out larders come in at 300mm or 400mm. Using the full height of the room is the most efficient way to add storage.

Pull-out larders work because the contents come out to you. A 400mm unit looks narrow from the front, yet a good pull-out makes the whole depth reachable from both sides. A fixed cupboard of the same volume hides half its contents at the back.

Drawers Versus Cupboards

Below worktop height, drawers win. The contents come out towards you rather than needing to be reached around. The most comfortable zone in any kitchen sits roughly between 600mm and 1400mm from the floor.

Pan drawers show the point clearly. Internal depths are typically around 140mm for shallower items, 200mm for plates and general cookware, and 280mm for larger pans and stock pots. A deep drawer holds several pans while keeping all of them visible from above.

Cupboards still earn their place for tall or awkward items and anything you use rarely. Most kitchens want both: drawers for daily storage, cupboards for whatever does not suit a fixed depth.

Solving Corners

A corner base unit of around 900mm by 900mm holds a lot, but very little of it is easy to reach with fixed shelves. Carousels rotate the contents towards the opening, while pull-out mechanisms bring baskets clear of the cabinet altogether.

Both improve access, and both use some of the space for the mechanism. Sometimes the sensible call is to accept the corner will never be maximum storage and put the effort into the cabinets around it. Good kitchen layout planning matters more than squeezing every millimetre from a difficult corner.

Where Standard Sizes Stop Working

Standard units suit straight walls and predictable dimensions. They get restrictive in period properties and any room where the nearest standard width leaves an unusable gap.

Walls out of square, chimney breasts, alcoves, and sloping ceilings all create the same problem. Standard cabinetry fills those spaces with blank panels, which is fine for one small gap. When the compromises stack up across a whole kitchen, made to measure cabinetry uses the room you actually have instead of the nearest increment, vertically as well as horizontally. That is where bespoke design earns its keep, and it is more about solving dimensions than decorative detail.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are standard kitchen unit sizes?

Base cabinets usually run 300mm to 1000mm wide at 560mm to 600mm deep. Wall units are around 300mm to 350mm deep, and tall units commonly stand between 1950mm and 2300mm high.

How deep is a standard kitchen base unit?

Around 560mm to 600mm before the worktop overhang. A standard worktop is roughly 600mm deep, with 650mm used for deeper runs.

What is the standard kitchen worktop height?

Approximately 900mm, made up of a 720mm carcass, 150mm legs and plinth, and the worktop itself. The exact height varies with the cabinetry and specification.

How wide is a larder unit?

Tall larders are often 600mm wide, while narrow pull-out versions come in 300mm or 400mm. The right size depends on how much you store and what the room allows.

Are drawers better than cupboards in a kitchen?

Below worktop height, usually yes, because the contents come out to you rather than needing to be reached around. Cupboards still suit tall or unusually shaped items, so most kitchens use both.

What is the best way to use a corner kitchen unit?

Carousel and pull-out mechanisms both beat fixed shelves for access. Each uses some internal space, so the choice is between easier reach and maximum volume.

Plan Storage Around Your Room

Storage works when cabinetry is planned around the room and the way you cook, not by filling the walls with standard units. We look at width, depth, access, appliances, and corners together, so the kitchen works in use as well as on paper.

Founded in 1983, Mayfair Kitchens has over 40 years of experience designing kitchens across Cheshire, Wirral, and the surrounding areas. If you are choosing a sink too, our guide to kitchen sink sizes covers the base unit widths each one needs, and planning a kitchen renovation covers the wider decisions.

Visit Mayfair Kitchen Studio at our Cheshire Oaks or Tarporley showroom to see cabinetry, larders, and drawer systems in person.

Arrange a design consultation with Mayfair Kitchens to plan storage around the dimensions of your room.

Kitchen sink sizes start with the cabinet underneath. A single bowl usually needs a 600mm base unit, a 1.5 bowl needs 800mm to 1000mm, and a double bowl needs 1000mm or wider.

At Mayfair Kitchens we settle this early, because a sink chosen after the cabinetry has been made will always cost you something. Usually storage. Sometimes worktop space, and occasionally both.

Kitchen Sink Sizes and Base Unit Widths

Your bowl configuration sets the cabinet width:

•     Single bowl: 600mm base unit. The most common choice, and the most efficient use of a cabinet run.
•     1.5 bowl: 800mm to 1000mm, depending on the bowl sizes and whether a drainer is built in.
•     Double bowl: 1000mm or wider. Two full bowls use up a lot of storage.
•     Belfast: purpose-built cabinet. A standard carcass will not take one, since the exposed ceramic front needs its own support.

Depth is a separate decision. Around 180mm to 200mm suits most households, while deeper bowls reach roughly 250mm and take larger pans comfortably. The trade-off is that the base of the sink sits further away, which not everyone finds easy to work at. Choose for what actually goes in the sink rather than for the biggest bowl available.

Kitchen sink sizes and what fits underneath

External dimensions are only half the picture. Clips, waste fittings, pipework, and tap connections all take room inside the cabinet, and whatever is left has to hold everything else you planned to store there.

Bins are the usual casualty. A pull-out has to clear the bowl and the plumbing before it will work at all, and adding a water filter or a boiling water tank swallows whatever space remains. A sink that technically fits can still be the wrong specification.

Standard units leave you working in fixed widths. Made to measure cabinetry lets the designer use the space you actually have, which matters most when the sink, plumbing, bins, and tap equipment are all competing for one cupboard.

Undermount, Inset or Belfast?

What separates them is how they meet the worktop, so establish your worktop material first.

Undermount sinks sit below the worktop, leaving the cut edge visible around the opening. Crumbs and water go straight off the surface into the bowl, which is the main appeal. The catch is that they need a solid, water-resistant material whose cut edge can be finished properly. Standard laminate will not do, because cutting through it exposes the substrate underneath. Settle the worktop material before you commit to an undermount sink, and our guide to worktop materials and cabinet choices covers which surfaces suit one.

Inset sinks drop in from above. The rim sits on the worktop and covers the cut edge, so they work across far more materials, and many come with a built-in drainer.

Belfast sinks are deep ceramic bowls with an exposed front. Their weight and shape mean the cabinet has to be built around them, and the worktop is templated to fit once the sink is in place.

Choosing a Tap

Start with tap holes. Kitchen taps use one, two, or three depending on the design, so nothing should be drilled until the exact tap is confirmed.

Spout reach comes next. Water should land in the middle of the bowl rather than against the back edge or straight onto the waste. A tall spout makes filling pans easier but needs clearance above, and if the sink sits beneath a window, check the tap does not block it from opening.

Water pressure matters more than the tap

Choosing a tap on looks alone is the quickest route to disappointing flow. Low-pressure taps work from around 0.2 to 0.3 bar and suit gravity-fed systems. Higher-pressure taps often need 1.0 bar or more, which is typical of combi and unvented systems.

Fit a high-pressure tap to a system that cannot supply it and you get a weak trickle. Replacing it afterwards is an avoidable cost, and checking the water system during the technical survey stage takes minutes.

Boiling water taps need the same forethought. They free up worktop space by replacing the kettle, but the tank is roughly a 300mm cube and sits in the sink cabinet alongside a socket and sometimes filters. Allow for it before you plan the storage, and leave yourself access for filter changes.

Positioning the Sink

Allow at least 300mm of landing space either side where the room permits, and keep the dishwasher next to the sink. Plates can then be scraped and loaded without anyone crossing the kitchen, and the plumbing stays simpler.

A sink in an island brings plumbing routes and lost storage into play. Our guide to kitchen island dimensions covers the clearances and seating allowances you will need to plan around.

Where washing, prep, and cooking share the same part of the room, plan the ventilation and extraction at the same time rather than afterwards.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size kitchen sink do I need?

It depends on the cabinet beneath it. A single bowl commonly needs a 600mm base unit, a 1.5 bowl needs 800mm to 1000mm, and a double bowl needs 1000mm or wider.

What is the difference between an undermount and inset sink?

An undermount sink fixes below the worktop, leaving the cut edge visible around the bowl. An inset sink fits from above, with a rim that sits on the worktop and covers the opening.

Can you fit an undermount sink to a laminate worktop?

Standard laminate is not suited to a conventional undermount sink, because cutting the opening exposes the substrate beneath. Undermount sinks suit materials whose cut edges can be finished properly.

How many tap holes does my sink need?

One, two, or three, depending on the tap design. Confirm the exact tap specification before the sink or worktop is drilled.

Why is my new kitchen tap running slowly?

This usually happens because the tap needs more pressure than your property can supply. Check the tap specification against your water system before buying.

Do boiling water taps take up cabinet space?

Yes. The tank is around a 300mm cube and needs a power socket, sometimes with filtration alongside it, all inside the sink cabinet.

Specify Your Sink at the Design Stage

Sinks and taps look like finishing touches, but they drive cabinetry, worktop fabrication, plumbing, and storage. Specify them early and the rest of the kitchen does not have to adapt around them.

Founded in 1983, Mayfair Kitchens has over 40 years of experience designing kitchens across Cheshire, Wirral, and the surrounding areas. If your project involves wider building work, it is worth reading about planning a kitchen renovation first.

Visit Mayfair Kitchen Studio at our Cheshire Oaks or Tarporley showroom to see sinks, taps, worktops, and cabinetry together.

Arrange a design consultation with Mayfair Kitchens to start planning a kitchen around the way you use your home.

At Mayfair Kitchens, we know extraction is rarely the part of a new kitchen anyone looks forward to discussing. It is also one of the details that decides whether you enjoy the room every day.

As a starting point, your kitchen extraction rate should be around 10 times the volume of the room every hour. Measure the length, width, and height, multiply them together, then multiply that figure by 10. The answer, in cubic metres per hour, is the rate to work from.

The appliance is only half of it. A powerful hood pushed through a narrow duct with three bends in it will move less air, and make far more noise doing so, than a modest hood on a short, straight run. Whether you are updating a Victorian terrace in Chester or creating an open-plan extension on the Wirral, we plan the route alongside the appliance rather than after it.

How to Work Out Your Kitchen Extraction Rate

Take a kitchen measuring 5m by 4m, with a ceiling height of 2.5m. That gives a room volume of 50m³. Multiplied by 10, you need an extractor rated at roughly 500m³/h.

The calculation matters because it ties the appliance to your actual room. Kitchen extractor size is too often decided by the width of the hob, or simply by what suited the look of the space, and neither says much about how much air the room needs moved.

Width still counts. Your extractor should be at least as wide as the hob, and ideally 100mm wider on each side. Steam does not rise in a neat column. It drifts, and a hood that stops at the edge of the hob lets a good deal of it past.

Kitchen ventilation is also a regulatory matter. Building Regulations have required extract ventilation in kitchens since April 2006, and the current figures sit in Approved Document F:

•     30 l/s for intermittent extraction next to the hob
•     60 l/s for intermittent extraction elsewhere in the room
•     13 l/s minimum for continuous extraction

Check the current guidance and your appliance specification for your own project, as manufacturers set their own installation requirements on top.

Ducted or Recirculating Extraction?

A ducted extractor sends cooking air outside. A recirculating one filters it and returns it to the room. Where a sensible route to an external wall exists, our advice is almost always to duct it.

The reason is moisture. Grease and charcoal filters handle a good deal of odour and airborne fat, but no filter removes water vapour. Recirculated air comes back into the kitchen carrying everything the steam was holding, and over the years that shows on paintwork, in cabinetry, and on cooler surfaces near the hob.

Recirculation still earns its place. Apartments, internal kitchens, period properties where the fabric cannot be cut into, and any project where reaching an external wall would mean five metres of duct and four bends. In those cases, a recirculating system on a short run serves you better than a ducted one working its way across the building.

Two practical differences: recirculating systems need charcoal filters replaced every 6 to 12 months, whereas ducted ones generally do not, and a recirculating unit can sit almost anywhere, whereas a ducted one goes where the route allows.

Either way, decide at the design stage. Retrofitting a duct route through finished cabinetry is expensive and rarely tidy.

Why the Ducting Matters More Than the Hood

An extractor can only move air as fast as the duct allows. Every reduction in diameter, every extra metre, and every bend adds resistance, which shows up as weaker extraction and more noise.

This is where money gets wasted. Someone has a noisy, ineffective extractor, replaces it with something more powerful, and the new appliance disappoints in the same way. The hood was never the problem.

Duct diameter. 150mm is standard for most modern extraction. Drop to 125mm, and you are pushing the same volume of air through a noticeably smaller opening, raising both resistance and noise. Ducts get reduced because a smaller one is easier to hide, and we would encourage you to resist that. Cabinetry should be built around the duct your appliance needs. A route passing through a tall unit, ceiling void, or bulkhead is far simpler to plan through our bespoke kitchen design service before anything is manufactured.

Length of run. The shortest sensible route outside wins. Each bend costs you roughly the same as another metre of straight duct, so two or three tight turns will change an extractor’s performance entirely even though the appliance is identical. We work the route out during the technical survey stage, while walls and units can still move around it.

Rigid rather than flexible. A rigid duct has a smooth bore, so air moves cleanly and quietly. A flexible duct is ridged inside, and those ridges churn the airflow into turbulence you will hear as a rushing sound above the lowest setting. Short flexible connections where alignment is awkward are fine. Long flexible runs, chosen because they were quicker to fit, are not.

Choosing the Right Type of Extractor

The right extractor depends on your hob position, ceiling construction, duct route, and how visible you want the appliance to be.

Chimney extractors sit above the hob in full view and give the most direct route out, particularly where the hob is on an external wall. Extractor hood height should be 650 to 750mm above induction and electric hobs, and at least 750mm above gas, though manufacturer figures always take precedence.

Integrated extractors disappear into the cabinetry, which suits kitchens where an unbroken run of units matters more than a statement appliance. Concealing one does not remove the ducting requirement, so allow room within or above the cabinet for the unit and the full duct diameter.

Ceiling extractors leave the space above the hob completely clear, which works beautifully in open-plan rooms. Sitting further from the cooking surface, they need careful sizing, and the ceiling void must accommodate both the unit and its route out.

Downdraft systems draw vapour sideways or downwards, so they suit kitchens where open sightlines matter. The cost is underneath, where motors and ducting take space that would otherwise be drawers.

Venting hobs combine cooking surface and extraction in one appliance, giving a very clean result on an island where a suspended hood would feel intrusive. The air still has to go somewhere, so settle the duct route and the storage you lose as part of the island design.

Extraction Over a Kitchen Island

You can extract over an island using a ceiling extractor, suspended hood, downdraft system, or venting hob. Which suits depends on your ceiling construction, the route available, and how much cabinet space you can give up.

An overhead hood captures best, sitting directly above the hob, but becomes a significant object in an open room. Ceiling extraction keeps the sightline clean at the cost of void space above. Downdraft systems and venting hobs keep both ceiling and eye-line clear, taking their space from your drawers instead.

Settle this alongside the kitchen island dimensions rather than once the island is drawn, as an extractor introduced late tends to eat the storage the island was designed to provide. Lighting needs deciding at the same moment, since pendants, ceiling extraction, and downlights all compete for the same area of ceiling. Coordinating it with the lighting scheme early is far easier than reconciling them after the first fix.

Noise, Filters, and Maintenance

Extractor noise comes from the appliance and the duct together. Boost settings commonly sit around 50 to 55 dB(A), though models vary widely, and a well-designed route does more for the sound of your kitchen than a marginally better rating on paper.

Compare figures across the whole speed range rather than peak extraction alone. Most everyday cooking does not need full power, and an extractor that only works properly on boost is one people quietly stop switching on.

Grease filters need cleaning at whatever interval your manufacturer recommends, since a clogged filter restricts airflow and makes the motor work harder for less result. One last thing worth raising at installation is access: filters should slide out easily, and anything needing servicing should not end up boxed in behind a permanent panel.

Frequently Asked Questions

What kitchen extraction rate do I need?

Your kitchen extraction rate should be roughly 10 times the room volume per hour. Multiply the volume in cubic metres by 10, so a 50m³ kitchen needs approximately 500m³/h as a starting figure, adjusted for the appliance specification and duct route.

Do Building Regulations require an extractor hood?

They require extract ventilation in kitchens, not a particular style of hood. What matters is that the system meets the ventilation requirement, so check the current Approved Document F guidance for your project.

Is a ducted or recirculating extractor better?

Ducted, where a practical route outside exists, because it removes moisture as well as odour. Recirculating systems are the sensible answer where external ducting would mean a long or heavily bent run.

How high should an extractor be above the hob?

Around 650 to 750mm above induction and electric hobs, and at least 750mm above gas. Always follow the hob and extractor manufacturers’ stated distances.

Why is my extractor so noisy?

Usually, the ducting rather than the appliance. A duct that is too narrow, runs too far, turns too often, or uses long lengths of flexible material will create airflow noise, however good the extractor is.

Can you have an extractor over a kitchen island?

Yes, using a ceiling extractor, suspended hood, downdraft system, or venting hob. The right choice depends on ceiling construction, duct route, island size, and the storage you can spare.

Plan Extraction Into Your Kitchen Design

Kitchen extraction works best when the appliance, the duct, and the cabinetry are designed as one. Left until the end, something always gives, and it is usually the duct diameter or a run of drawers.

Founded in 1983, Mayfair Kitchens has spent over 40 years designing kitchens for homes across Cheshire, Wirral, and the wider North West. If you are planning a kitchen renovation, settling these details early keeps a project moving cleanly from design through survey to installation.

Visit our Cheshire Oaks or Tarporley showroom, or contact our team to arrange a consultation. Let us help you create a kitchen that is truly built with you in mind.

To clean painted kitchen cabinets, use a soft, damp cloth and a mild detergent, then dry the surface straight away. That is almost all a hand-painted kitchen needs. Avoid abrasive products, bleach, solvents, harsh degreasers, and steam cleaners, as all of these can damage the paint rather than protect it.

At Mayfair Kitchens, we find this is the part homeowners worry about most before committing to a painted finish. In practice, hand-painted cabinetry is straightforward to live with. It simply responds differently to moisture, heat, and cleaning products than vinyl or foil doors, and knowing a few principles makes the difference between a kitchen that ages well and one that looks tired far too early.

How to Clean Painted Kitchen Cabinets

Use a soft microfibre or cotton cloth, a small amount of mild detergent, and warm water. The cloth should be damp rather than wet, since painted timber does not benefit from water sitting around joints, edges, or detailing. Dry the area with a clean cloth once the mark has gone.

Regular gentle cleaning is far safer than letting grease build up and then reaching for something aggressive to shift it. For stubborn marks, repeat the gentle process rather than moving straight to a stronger chemical. Products designed to cut through heavy grease will happily attack a painted finish too.

•     Use a soft, damp cloth, never a scouring pad
•     Choose a mild detergent over a specialist degreaser
•     Wipe spills promptly
•     Dry the surface afterwards
•     Avoid pressure and scrubbing

What Damages a Painted Finish

The main risks are abrasive cleaning, strong chemicals, prolonged moisture, steam, and spills left sitting on the surface. Nearly all of it is avoidable.

Abrasives and scouring pads scratch and dull the finish, and the damage is permanent rather than something that buffs out. Bleach can discolour paintwork. Solvents may soften or strip it entirely. Strong degreasers sound appropriate for a kitchen, but if a product relies on aggressive chemicals or abrasion to work, keep it away from painted furniture.

Steam cleaners should be avoided altogether. The concern is not the temperature alone. Repeated exposure to concentrated heat and moisture affects both the paint and the timber beneath it. The same applies to appliance steam, so pay attention to where your kettle sits and where vapour escapes from the dishwasher. Directing hot steam at the underside of the same wall cabinet every day will eventually tell.

Spills want dealing with quickly rather than aggressively later. Acidic liquids such as lemon juice, vinegar, and wine should be wiped away immediately, and strongly coloured foods like turmeric and curry sauces are far easier to remove before they have had time to settle into the paint.

The First Month

A newly painted kitchen continues hardening for several weeks after installation. Paint feels dry to the touch quickly while still curing underneath, so treat the finish more gently during the first month.

Avoid unnecessary rubbing, harsh cleaning, and resting objects against painted surfaces. Be particularly careful around handles, high-use drawers, and the areas beneath sinks and preparation zones, since these take the most contact straight after installation. Clean spills promptly, but with the least aggressive method available.

None of this means a new kitchen cannot be used normally. It simply benefits from a little more care while it reaches full hardness. Where we supply specific care instructions for your chosen paint finish, those take priority over general guidance.

Hairline Cracks Are Normal

Fine hairline cracks can appear at the joints of solid timber frames as the material expands and contracts. In most cases, this is normal timber movement, not a manufacturing defect.

Timber is a natural material, and changes in temperature and humidity alter its moisture content, causing very small movements throughout the year. On a framed painted door, those movements become visible where separate pieces of timber meet, and a fine line can appear through the paint at a joint while the door itself remains perfectly sound. It shows up most on pale, very smooth finishes, simply because the line creates contrast in an otherwise uniform surface.

The distinction worth understanding is between normal movement and genuine damage. A very fine line at a timber joint is a different thing from paint peeling away, substantial splitting, or a door changing shape. If you are unsure about something you have noticed, ask us to look at it rather than attempting a repair yourself.

This is one of the quiet advantages of a hand-painted kitchen. Minor cosmetic changes can usually be touched in later, because the finish is designed to be maintained rather than replaced.

Humidity, Steam, and Ventilation

Consistent ventilation reduces large swings in humidity, which limits unnecessary movement in timber cabinetry. A painted kitchen does not need a perfectly controlled environment, but repeated exposure to excess moisture is worth avoiding.

Cooking creates steam by its nature. Boiling pans, dishwashers, and kettles all introduce moisture into the room, and using proper ventilation and extraction while you cook removes it rather than leaving it to settle around the cabinetry.

Appliance placement matters just as much. Avoid siting a kettle where steam repeatedly hits the underside of a wall cabinet and be conscious of vapour rising towards painted surfaces when you open a dishwasher at the end of a hot cycle.

No timber kitchen stays completely static through every seasonal change, and the aim is a reasonably consistent environment rather than no movement at all. It is also why we consider extraction, cabinetry, and appliances together at the design stage rather than as separate decisions.

Painted Kitchen Maintenance: Touch-Ups and Repair

Minor marks on a hand-painted kitchen can usually be touched up rather than needing a whole door or panel replaced. Keeping a small amount of the original paint, along with the colour reference and finish, makes future repairs considerably easier.

Small chips and marks are simply part of a heavily used room. Pans move in and out of drawers, chairs are pulled alongside cabinetry, and children, pets, and shopping bags pass close to painted surfaces every day. Over many years, the occasional mark does not mean the finish has failed. Where you can, hold on to:

•     The paint colour reference and manufacturer
•     The finish or sheen level
•     A small quantity of the original paint
•     Any aftercare information supplied with the kitchen

Touch-ups need a light hand. Applying too much paint makes a minor mark more visible rather than less, particularly on smooth cabinetry. If the affected area is larger, or the original paint is no longer available, professional refinishing is usually the better route.

Hinges and runners form part of long-term care too and occasionally need adjustment or lubrication. A door that has drifted slightly out of alignment rarely needs replacing. Small adjustments will normally restore the correct gaps and closing action.

Can a Hand-Painted Kitchen Be Repainted?

Yes, and it is one of the strongest arguments for choosing a painted finish in the first place. Because the visible surface is painted rather than a manufactured layer, sound cabinetry can be prepared and painted again rather than replaced.

Foil and vinyl doors work differently. Once that surface layer has deteriorated, the repair options are limited, and replacement is often the only answer.

Repainting is useful for two quite different reasons. The first is maintenance, refreshing a kitchen after many years without removing perfectly good furniture. The second is design, since a colour chosen at installation may no longer suit the rest of the home a decade later. Repainting changes the appearance while keeping the cabinetry you already paid for.

That long-term maintainability is central to the value of hand-painted bespoke cabinetry, and it sits alongside our 5-year Mayfair guarantee. The real measure of a bespoke kitchen is not how it looks the week it is fitted, but how well it can be cared for, adjusted, and maintained over the years that follow.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you clean painted kitchen cabinets?

Clean painted kitchen cabinets with a soft, damp cloth and a small amount of mild detergent, then dry the surface immediately afterwards. Avoid abrasive creams, scouring pads, bleach, solvents, and harsh degreasers.

Can you use bleach on a painted kitchen?

No. Bleach can discolour or damage a painted finish, so a mild detergent is the safer choice for everyday cleaning.

Why has my painted kitchen developed hairline cracks?

Fine cracks appear where sections of solid timber meet, because wood expands and contracts as humidity changes. Small lines at frame joints are usually normal movement rather than a manufacturing defect.

How long does a hand-painted kitchen take to cure?

A newly painted kitchen can continue hardening for several weeks after installation. Treat the finish gently during the first month and follow any specific care guidance supplied with the kitchen.

Can a hand-painted kitchen be repainted?

Yes. Painted cabinetry can be prepared and refinished, allowing an existing kitchen to be refreshed or given a different colour without replacing sound cabinets.

How long should a hand-painted kitchen last?

There is no single lifespan, as durability depends on the cabinetry, installation, everyday use, and maintenance. The advantage of a painted finish is that it can be touched up and eventually repainted, which extends the useful life of well-made furniture considerably.

Aftercare at Mayfair Kitchens

Hand-painted kitchen care should not be complicated. Gentle cleaning, prompt attention to spills, sensible ventilation, and the occasional adjustment are usually all that well-made cabinetry needs to look good for years.

Founded in 1983, Mayfair Kitchens has spent over 40 years designing kitchens for homes across Cheshire, Wirral, and the wider North West, and we support homeowners well beyond the point of installation. That matters particularly with painted cabinetry, where touch-ups, small adjustments, and future refinishing can preserve a kitchen rather than replace it. If you are still at the planning stage, you may also find it useful to read about how long a bespoke kitchen takes.

Visit our Cheshire Oaks or Tarporley showroom, or contact our team to arrange a consultation. Let us help you create a kitchen that is truly built with you in mind.

A successful kitchen lighting scheme needs three layers: task lighting for working, ambient lighting for general visibility and accent lighting for atmosphere. Most unsuccessful schemes rely on a single grid of ceiling lights, leaving worktops shadowed and the room feeling flat.

Lighting should be planned alongside the cabinetry, appliances and electrical positions rather than added after the kitchen has been designed. Decisions about downlights, pendants, under-cabinet strips, switching and dimming ideally need to be agreed before first fix, while cables and drivers can still be positioned correctly.

The Three Layers of Kitchen Lighting

Every kitchen needs a combination of task, ambient and accent lighting. Each layer performs a different job, and no single fitting can deliver all three effectively.

These figures are design guidance rather than fixed regulations. Ceiling height, natural light, cabinet colour, worktop reflectivity and the output of each fitting will all affect the final result.

Task lighting provides focused illumination where food is prepared, cooked and cleaned. It includes under-cabinet strips, correctly positioned downlights and dedicated light around the hob and sink.

Ambient lighting creates the room’s overall level of brightness. It may come from ceiling fittings, downlights, larger pendants or reflected light from walls and ceilings.

Accent lighting introduces depth and atmosphere. Plinth lights, illuminated shelving and lights inside glazed cabinets can soften the room in the evening without requiring every ceiling fitting to remain on.

The strongest schemes allow these layers to be controlled separately. That makes it possible to use bright task lighting while cooking and switch to softer ambient or accent lighting once the work is finished.

Task Lighting

Task lighting should illuminate the worktop directly without placing the person using it between the light source and the surface. Downlights positioned in the middle of the room often put the cook’s own shadow exactly where they need to see.

The most useful position for kitchen downlights is usually above the front edge of the worktop. This allows the beam to fall across the preparation area rather than behind the user.

A symmetrical grid may look neat on an electrical drawing, but the kitchen should determine the lighting positions. Downlights need to respond to cabinet runs, tall housings, islands, sinks and preparation zones rather than being spaced solely around the dimensions of the ceiling.

Under-cabinet lighting

Under-cabinet lighting is one of the most effective ways to illuminate a kitchen worktop. It brings light closer to the surface and removes many of the shadows caused by wall cabinets and ceiling lights.

LED strips should normally be installed toward the front edge of the cabinet rather than close to the wall. A strip positioned at the back tends to illuminate the splashback while leaving the front of the worktop comparatively dark.

A diffuser can help produce an even line of light and reduce visible individual LED points. The fitting should also be concealed from normal standing and seated viewpoints so that users see the effect of the light rather than the source itself. Where the cabinetry is made to measure, as it is through our bespoke kitchen design service, channels and cable routes can be built into the units rather than added afterwards.

The colour temperature should coordinate with the rest of the kitchen. Combining a warm 2,700K pendant with a cool 4,000K under-cabinet strip can make the scheme feel inconsistent, even when both fittings look suitable individually.

Lighting the sink and hob

The sink, hob and main preparation areas should receive focused task lighting. These are the places where visibility matters most, so they should not rely entirely on reflected ambient light.

A hob beneath an extractor may already have an integrated lamp, but its colour and brightness should be checked against the wider scheme. Integrated extractor lighting is useful, although it may not provide enough illumination for the surrounding worktop.

The sink also needs direct light, particularly when it sits below wall cabinets or away from a window. In a kitchen with several preparation zones, each area should be considered separately instead of assuming that one central fitting will cover the whole room.

Lighting a Kitchen Island

Pendant lights should normally hang 750–900mm above an island worktop and be centred on the island rather than the room. Where several pendants are used, spacing them approximately 600–750mm apart usually creates a balanced result.

The measurement should be taken from the worktop to the bottom of the shade. This keeps the fittings low enough to create useful light and visual impact without blocking views across the kitchen.

The correct number of pendants depends on the island’s length, the size of each shade and the amount of light they produce. Three small pendants may suit a long island, while one or two larger fittings can be more appropriate above a compact design.

Avoid placing the end pendants too close to the edge. The group should feel centred within the usable island surface, especially where seating, a sink or a hob interrupts the worktop.

Pendant lights are often more decorative than functional, so they should not be expected to provide all the task lighting. A large opaque shade may direct light downwards effectively but leave other parts of the island darker. Ceiling lights or integrated task fittings may still be needed.

The island dimensions should be agreed before the pendant positions are fixed. See our guide to kitchen island dimensions for practical information on island sizes, working clearances, overhangs and seating allowances.

Ambient and Accent Lighting

Ambient lighting should provide comfortable general visibility throughout the room. Accent lighting should then add depth, highlight selected details and make the kitchen feel less clinical after dark.

Ceiling lights remain important, but they do not have to dominate the scheme. Carefully positioned downlights, surface-mounted fittings or decorative pendants can provide general illumination while responding to the architecture of the room.

A darker kitchen may require more reflected light than one with pale cabinets and worktops. Deep blue, charcoal, black and dark timber finishes absorb more light, so a scheme that works in a white kitchen may feel subdued when applied to darker cabinetry.

Plinth lighting

Plinth lighting can create a soft visual wash at floor level. It works best as an accent rather than the main source of illumination.

Continuous LED strips generally produce a more refined effect than individual points of light. They can also make cabinetry appear lighter by separating the units visually from the floor.

Plinth lights should be placed on their own circuit or control zone. This allows them to be used independently in the evening without switching on brighter ceiling or worktop lights.

Cabinet and shelf lighting

Lighting inside glazed cabinets can highlight glassware, ceramics or display pieces. It also helps darker cabinetry feel more open and visually layered.

Open shelves can be illuminated from above, below or within a recessed channel. The light source should remain discreet, and any cabling should be resolved before the cabinetry is manufactured.

Interior cabinet lighting can also be practical. Drawer, pantry and tall-cabinet lights that activate when a door opens improve visibility without affecting the appearance of the wider room.

Accent lighting should be selective. Illuminating every plinth, shelf and cabinet can produce visual noise and remove the contrast that gives accent lighting its effect.

Colour Temperature and Colour Rendering

A colour temperature of 2,700–3,000K suits most domestic kitchens. Colour temperature is measured in kelvins, where lower figures produce a warmer, more golden light and higher figures appear cooler and whiter. A 4,000K light can look clinical in a home, particularly beside painted cabinetry, timber floors and warm-toned worktops.

A traditional or timber-led kitchen will often feel comfortable at around 2,700K, while contemporary schemes may suit 3,000K for a slightly cleaner appearance. Consistency matters more than the exact figure: lights within the same visual area should use matching or closely coordinated temperatures unless a contrast is intentional.

Colour rendering is equally important. A CRI of 90+ helps food, paint colours, timber and stone appear more natural under artificial light.

Low colour rendering can flatten subtle shades or make ingredients look less appealing. This is especially noticeable on worktops where food is prepared and in kitchens with carefully selected painted cabinetry.

When reviewing fittings, check both the kelvin rating and the CRI. Brightness alone does not indicate whether a light will make the kitchen look comfortable or reproduce colours accurately.

Switching, Dimming and Circuits

Kitchen lights should be divided into separate circuits or control zones. At minimum, task, ambient and accent lighting should be independently switchable so the room can adapt to different activities.

A practical scheme might separate:

• Main ceiling lighting
• Island pendants
• Under-cabinet task lighting
• Plinth or shelf lighting
• Lights inside glazed cabinets
• Dining or adjoining living-area lighting

Dimmers provide additional flexibility, particularly for ceiling lights and pendants. A bright setting may be useful for cleaning and preparation, while a lower level creates a calmer atmosphere during meals.

Not every LED fitting or driver is dimmable. The fittings, drivers and controls must be compatible, so this should be confirmed when the products are specified rather than after installation.

Consider where the controls will be used. A switch near the main entrance is essential, but additional controls may be helpful beside an adjoining dining space or at another frequently used doorway.

Smart controls can support preset scenes such as cooking, dining and evening modes. They are most useful when the underlying circuit design is already sensible; they cannot correct poorly positioned lights or missing task illumination.

When to Make Kitchen Lighting Decisions

Kitchen lighting should be decided before electrical first fix and ideally during the technical design stage. Leaving it until cabinetry is being fitted can result in exposed cables, inaccessible drivers and lights that do not align with the finished kitchen.

The cabinet plan determines where worktops, tall units, appliances, shelves and the island will sit. Those details are needed before downlights and pendants can be positioned accurately.

Early decisions also allow channels for LED strips to be incorporated into cabinets and shelves. Transformers and drivers can be placed somewhere accessible for maintenance without remaining visible in the finished room.

Pendant positions may need to align with an island that is not centred within the room. Wiring them from a general room plan before the island dimensions are finalised can leave the fittings noticeably off-centre.

The lighting design should therefore be reviewed alongside:

• The final cabinetry plan
• Appliance and extractor positions
• Island dimensions and seating
• Switching locations and natural light
• Driver and transformer access

This is why lighting forms part of the technical survey stage rather than a final decorative decision. It is also one of the reasons to begin planning a kitchen renovation before building and electrical work starts.

All domestic electrical work should be completed by a suitably qualified electrician and meet the relevant Part P requirements.

Frequently Asked Questions

How high should pendant lights hang over a kitchen island?

Pendant lights should normally hang 750–900mm above the island worktop, measured to the bottom of the shade. The final height should preserve views across the room while providing useful illumination.

What colour temperature is best for a kitchen?

A colour temperature of 2,700–3,000K suits most domestic kitchens. It provides a warm appearance without making the room feel excessively yellow, while 4,000K can appear clinical in a residential setting.

Where should kitchen downlights be positioned?

Kitchen downlights should generally be positioned above the front edge of the worktop. Placing them in the centre of the room can cause the user’s body to cast a shadow across the preparation surface.

Is under-cabinet lighting worth it?

Yes. Under-cabinet lighting brings focused illumination directly onto the worktop and reduces shadows created by wall cabinets and ceiling fittings.

How many lights does a kitchen need?

There is no universal number, because it depends on the size of the room, the output and beam angle of each fitting, the cabinet colours and the amount of natural light. Aim for approximately 300 lux of general lighting and around 500 lux in task areas as design guidance.

When should kitchen lighting be decided?

Kitchen lighting should be agreed before electrical first fix. This allows cables, switches, pendant positions, LED channels and accessible drivers to be incorporated into the design properly.

Plan Your Kitchen Lighting

A good lighting scheme begins with the way the kitchen will be used. Task, ambient and accent layers should be planned together so that preparation areas remain clear and bright while the wider room can feel softer in the evening.

Mayfair Kitchen Studio has been designing bespoke kitchens since 1983, helping homeowners across Cheshire, Wirral and the surrounding areas coordinate cabinetry, appliances, surfaces and lighting from the beginning of the project. Resolving the lighting during the design and technical survey stages is what allows pendants to align with the island, downlights to illuminate the worktops and integrated lighting to be built neatly into the cabinetry.

Visit our showrooms at Cheshire Oaks or Tarporley to discuss your kitchen plans with an experienced designer.

Arrange a design consultation with Mayfair Kitchens to start planning your kitchen and its lighting together.

A workable kitchen island starts at roughly 1,000 × 1,000mm and needs at least 1,000mm of clear space around it in most kitchens. The final kitchen island size should then account for appliance doors, seating, the number of cooks and the jobs the island needs to perform.

An island can add preparation space, storage and informal seating, but only when it is properly proportioned. A design that looks generous on a plan can feel cramped once a dishwasher door is open, stools are pulled out or two people are cooking together.

Kitchen Island Dimensions at a Glance

Start with an island of at least 1,000 × 1,000mm and allow a working clearance of 1,000–1,200mm around it. Smaller dimensions may be possible, but every reduction affects movement, storage, seating or appliance access.

These figures are starting points. Doorways, radiators, tall cabinets, handles, appliance openings and changes in floor level can all affect the usable space.

How Big Does a Kitchen Island Need to Be?

A kitchen island needs to be at least 1,000 × 1,000mm to provide a useful work surface, while approximately 1,800 × 1,000mm is a more practical size for preparation and storage. Larger islands can hold more, but they should never reduce the surrounding working aisles.

At the minimum size, an island may provide a compact preparation area with storage below. It is unlikely to accommodate comfortable seating, a sink and uninterrupted worktop space at the same time. Asking one small island to perform every job usually creates a compromised result.

At around 1,800mm long, there is more freedom to combine drawers, cupboards, clear preparation space and seating. It is also the minimum clear run needed for 3 stools at 600mm per person.

Bigger is not automatically better. An excessively deep worktop can be difficult to clean across, while a long island may become a barrier. The right dimensions are those that make the surrounding kitchen easier to use, and the surface itself should be chosen alongside them – our guide to worktop materials and cabinet choices covers how each option behaves in daily use.

How Much Space Do You Need Around an Island?

Allow 1,000–1,200mm around the main working sides of a kitchen island, with 900mm treated as an absolute minimum. Increase this to at least 1,200mm where two people cook together or appliance doors open into the aisle.

A 900mm gap may be passable beside a clear cabinet run. It becomes restrictive when someone is loading a dishwasher, opening a wide drawer or standing in front of an oven. A dishwasher door projects by approximately 600mm, so a narrow aisle can be almost blocked before space for the user is considered.

Measure between the furthest projecting points, not just the cabinet carcasses. Include worktop overhangs, handles, end panels and stools. On the seating side, people need room to pull their stools back without obstructing the main route.

Pay attention to the narrowest point. An island may have 1,100mm around most sides but only 800mm beside a doorway or tall cabinet. That pinch point often determines whether it feels comfortable.

Seating an Island

Comfortable kitchen island seating normally needs a 300mm worktop overhang and 650–700mm of width per person. A 250mm overhang and 600mm per person are workable minimums, but suit shorter periods of sitting.

The overhang provides knee room. At 250mm, many adults will need to sit slightly sideways or pull further away. A 300mm overhang is better for breakfasts, homework and regular informal meals.

An overhang of 380mm or more feels more like table seating, but the worktop may need extra support. The correct solution depends on its material, thickness and unsupported span, so corbels, legs or a designed cantilever should be specified with the worktop specialist.

These measurements require an uninterrupted run. Legs and decorative end panels reduce the usable width.

For a standard 900mm worktop, choose a counter-height stool with a seat around 650mm high. A raised 1,050mm bar normally needs a seat around 750mm high. Check the finished surface height before ordering stools.

Putting a Sink or Hob in the Island

A sink or hob increases the required island size and removes worktop and storage space. The design should still retain practical preparation and landing areas rather than becoming almost entirely occupied by equipment.

A sink requires water, waste plumbing and cabinet space for the bowl and fittings. A dishwasher may sit beside it, but its open door and the user’s standing position must be included in the opposite clearance. The sink cabinet may also need to hold bins or cleaning products.

A hob requires power or gas and a suitable extraction plan. Ceiling extraction can preserve cabinet storage, while a downdraft or venting hob may reduce drawer depth and use space beneath the worktop.

Avoid positioning either appliance too close to the island end. Clear worktop beside it makes it safer and easier to set down pans, drain food or prepare ingredients, while keeping seated guests away from splashes and hot cookware.

Services should be planned before floors and installation details are finalised, which is why these decisions sit early in the project rather than late – see how long a bespoke kitchen takes for where they fall in the programme. Electrical work in a home must meet Part P requirements and should be completed by a competent, appropriately qualified electrician.

Storage Inside an Island

Island storage should be planned around the tasks carried out above it. Deep drawers suit pans, crockery and ingredients, while cupboards can house larger appliances and less frequently used items.

Drawers are usually easier to access than deep shelves because their contents come towards the user. Placing utensils, pans and preparation equipment on the working side can also reduce unnecessary movement.

Cabinets can face in opposite directions, providing working storage on one side and space for glasses or serving dishes on the other. Where the island includes seating, the run beneath the overhang is lost to knee space, so plan storage into the remaining width rather than assuming the full length is available.

A sink removes more storage than most people expect. The bowl, trap and waste pipe occupy the upper part of the cabinet beneath it, which usually rules out drawers in that bay. Bins and cleaning products are commonly housed there instead, which is practical, but it should be a deliberate decision rather than something discovered late in the design.

Power is worth resolving early. Sockets in an island need a route for the cable, which normally means a channel through the floor before cabinets are fitted. Retrofitting is disruptive and sometimes impossible once flooring is down. The same applies to charging points, pop-up sockets and any integrated appliance sitting within the island.

This is where made-to-measure cabinetry is particularly useful. Cabinet widths and fittings can be designed around the room and its services instead of forcing a standard combination into the space.

When an Island Is the Wrong Answer

An island is the wrong choice when it reduces a main aisle below 900mm, obstructs appliance doors or creates awkward pinch points. In those situations a peninsula or a clear central floor area will usually work better.

A narrow room can look large enough on a floor plan and still lack usable width once cabinets are fitted on both sides. The island then creates two restricted passages instead of one comfortable working area.

It is also worth asking whether the island has a clear purpose. Where the kitchen already has enough storage and worktop, another large object may only increase walking distance.

The test is simple: does the island make cooking, storage and movement easier? If not, reduce it, change it to a peninsula, or leave the floor clear. For a fuller comparison of how different plans work in different rooms, see our guide to choosing a kitchen layout.

Frequently Asked Questions

How big should a kitchen island be?

A useful kitchen island should be at least 1,000 × 1,000mm. A more practical working island is around 1,800 × 1,000mm, providing greater scope for preparation space and storage.

How much space do you need around a kitchen island?

Allow 1,000–1,200mm around the main working sides. Use 900mm only as an absolute minimum, increasing to 1,200mm+ for two cooks or opening appliances.

How much overhang do you need for island seating?

Allow 250mm for occasional seating and around 300mm for everyday comfort. Overhangs of 380mm+ may require additional support.

How many people can you seat at a kitchen island?

Allow at least 600mm per person, or 650–700mm for greater comfort. Three seats therefore need approximately 1,800mm at minimum, without legs or panels interrupting the run.

Can you put a sink or hob in a kitchen island?

Yes, provided the island retains useful worktop space around it. Plumbing, extraction, power, ducting and lost storage should all be resolved before approval.

Is my kitchen too small for an island?

It is likely too small if the design cannot maintain at least 900mm at every pinch point. A peninsula may provide similar benefits without needing circulation on all four sides.

Design an Island Around Your Room

The right island is designed from the room outwards, not selected as a standard block and made to fit afterwards. Its dimensions, seating, services, storage and clearances should be resolved together so that it works in daily use, not just on a drawing.

Mayfair Kitchen Studio has designed and fitted bespoke kitchens since 1983, with showrooms at Cheshire Oaks and Tarporley. Our designers can assess the available space and create an island with cabinetry made around the way you cook, store and sit. If your project involves wider building work, it is worth reading about planning a kitchen renovation before you begin.

Arrange a design consultation with Mayfair Kitchens to discuss an island designed around your home.

The best shaker kitchen ideas combine timeless cabinet design with colours, materials and practical details that reflect the individual home.

Although shaker cabinetry has traditional roots, its simple framed doors can be styled in many different ways. Pale painted cabinets and natural timber create a relaxed country kitchen. Dark colours, slim handles and crisp worktops produce a much more contemporary result.

That adaptability is why the style suits such varied properties – a Georgian townhouse in Chester, a countryside home near Tarporley, a Victorian terrace on the Wirral or a modern open-plan extension.

Here are twelve shaker kitchen designs to inspire your own project.

On this page

• Shaker kitchen colour palettes at a glance
• 12 shaker kitchen ideas, from traditional to modern
• How to choose the right shaker design
• Frequently asked questions

Shaker Kitchen Colour Palettes at a Glance

Cabinet colour is only the starting point. The hardware and worktop chosen alongside it determine whether the finished room reads as traditional or contemporary.

12 Shaker Kitchen Ideas, From Traditional to Modern

1. Warm White Shaker Kitchen with Oak Details

Warm white cabinetry suits homeowners who want a bright kitchen without the colder look of brilliant white.

Pairing it with natural oak shelving, an oak breakfast bar or timber flooring introduces warmth and texture. Light quartz worktops reflect daylight, while brushed nickel knobs and cup handles keep the finish understated.

Our Arlington range shows the principle at its best – burr oak with its knotty natural grain set against calm painted cabinets in a Farrow & Ball white. The combination works particularly well in Chester townhouses, traditional cottages and rooms where natural light is limited.

2. Soft Grey Shaker Kitchen for a Modern Family Home

Soft grey remains one of the most flexible shaker colours because it sits comfortably between traditional and contemporary design.

Use pale grey cabinetry with a white or lightly veined quartz worktop to keep the room fresh and open. Brushed steel handles, integrated appliances and simple pendant lighting add a modern edge without making the space feel clinical.

This is a practical choice for busy family homes and open-plan renovations, where the kitchen needs to coordinate with several adjoining living areas.

3. Sage Green Shaker Kitchen with Antique Brass Hardware

Sage green creates a calm, natural kitchen that suits countryside properties particularly well.

The muted colour works beautifully with warm oak, aged brass handles and cream or softly patterned stone worktops. A ceramic sink and open shelving strengthen the country influence, while clean cabinet lines stop the design becoming overly traditional.

It suits cottages, converted farmhouses and character homes throughout rural Cheshire, especially where the kitchen overlooks a garden or open landscape.

4. Navy Shaker Kitchen with a Statement Worktop

Deep navy cabinetry gives a shaker kitchen a more dramatic, luxurious appearance.

Pair it with a pale marble-effect quartz worktop to create contrast and stop the room feeling too dark. Aged brass handles, statement pendant lights and warm timber flooring soften the stronger colour while adding visual depth.

Navy works best in larger rooms with good natural light, which makes it a strong option for substantial period properties and spacious kitchen extensions.

5. Two-Tone Shaker Kitchen with a Contrasting Island

A contrasting island is one of the most effective modern shaker ideas for an open-plan room.

Keep the wall cabinets light and introduce a deeper colour; navy, charcoal or forest green, on the central island. Using the same worktop throughout connects the two colours and holds the design together.

The island then becomes a natural focal point for preparation, informal dining and entertaining. The approach borrows from contemporary kitchen designs and works especially well in large family kitchens and modern extensions.

6. Natural Oak Shaker Kitchen

A natural oak shaker kitchen celebrates the material rather than relying on a painted finish.

The visible grain adds warmth and individuality, while the simplicity of the framed doors keeps the result balanced. Oak cabinetry pairs well with pale stone, brushed metal hardware and a neutral tiled floor.

It suits barn conversions, rural properties and homes with exposed beams or other original timber features.

7. Charcoal Shaker Kitchen for a Contemporary Extension

Charcoal cabinetry gives the traditional shaker door a distinctly modern character.

For a crisp architectural effect, combine it with pale quartz worktops, slim black or brushed metal handles and carefully integrated appliances. Large windows, roof lights and glazed doors supply the daylight a darker palette needs.

The same logic drives our handleless lava grey range, where lacquered gloss and matching quartz create a uniform modern look. Charcoal shaker achieves a similar effect while keeping the warmth of a framed door – useful in a newly built extension, where cabinetry has to add detail to an otherwise minimalist space. If you are planning a kitchen extension, settle the cabinetry palette alongside the glazing.

8. Muted Blue Shaker Kitchen with Coastal Influences

A soft blue shaker kitchen creates a fresh, relaxed atmosphere without relying on an obvious coastal theme.

Pair muted blue cabinets with pale timber flooring, light stone worktops and polished nickel or chrome hardware. Glazed wall cabinets display selected glassware and make the upper cabinetry feel lighter.

The palette suits homes around West Kirby, Heswall and other parts of the Wirral, where it quietly reflects the surrounding landscape.

9. Greige Shaker Kitchen with Layered Neutrals

Greige combines the warmth of beige with the versatility of grey, creating a sophisticated neutral that is easy to live with.

Use slightly different neutral tones across cabinetry, walls and worktops to give the room depth. Bronze hardware, textured tiles and natural timber accessories stop the palette feeling flat.

It is a strong option for new builds and contemporary renovations, where homeowners want a kitchen that will coordinate easily with future interior changes.

10. Dark Green Shaker Kitchen with a Contemporary Finish

Dark green can feel both traditional and modern, depending on the materials chosen around it.

For a contemporary interpretation, pair deep green cabinets with a clean white worktop, simple brass handles and modern globe or linear lighting. A fluted timber panel on the island introduces texture and distinguishes the central feature from the surrounding cabinetry.

This confident palette suits larger kitchens, period renovations and design-led extensions, and pairs naturally with the higher-specification cabinetry in our Charles Yorke collection.

11. Pale Shaker Kitchen for a Compact Room

Shaker cabinetry is not limited to large country kitchens. Its clean proportions work just as well in smaller rooms, provided the palette stays light.

A pale cabinet colour, simple handles and a lightly patterned worktop help the space feel open. Keeping wall and cabinet tones close together reduces visual breaks, which makes a narrow room read as wider than it is.

Full-height cabinetry and integrated appliances maintain an uncluttered finish. For how the plan itself should work in a smaller space, see our guide to shaker layouts for small and large rooms.

12. Pantry-Led Shaker Kitchen for Busy Family Life

A bespoke pantry or breakfast cupboard turns a beautiful shaker kitchen into a highly practical family space.

Tall cabinetry conceals food storage, small appliances, charging points and everyday breakfast items behind coordinated framed doors. Inside, adjustable shelves, drawers and work surfaces keep frequently used items within reach.

This is where made-to-measure cabinetry earns its cost, standard units rarely use the full height or depth available. The design suits busy households that want generous storage without leaving appliances and packaging visible across the main worktops.

How to Choose the Right Shaker Design

Cabinet colour is only one part of the decision. The handles, worktop, flooring, lighting and internal storage all influence whether the finished kitchen feels contemporary, traditional or somewhere between the two.

When narrowing the options, consider:

• The amount of natural light in the room
• How cabinet colours will connect with adjoining spaces
• The storage requirements of your household
• Whether the kitchen is primarily for cooking, entertaining or family life
• The level of maintenance required by different worktops and finishes
• Which architectural features should be highlighted or preserved

Our guide to shaker styles goes further into matching a design to your property, read it to find your shaker style.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a shaker kitchen?

A shaker kitchen uses cabinet doors built from a simple five-piece frame with a flat recessed centre panel. The style takes its name from the 18th-century Shaker communities, whose furniture prioritised function and craftsmanship over ornament. You can read more about the origins of the shaker kitchen in our short history of the style.

What colour should I choose for a shaker kitchen?

Warm white, soft grey and greige are the most adaptable choices and suit almost any room. Sage green and muted blue work well in properties with a rural or coastal setting. Navy, charcoal and dark green make a stronger statement but need good natural light or a larger room to work comfortably.

What handles suit shaker cabinets best?

Cup handles and round knobs give the most traditional result. Brushed steel or slim bar handles push the same door towards a contemporary finish. Antique and aged brass suit warmer colours such as sage, navy and dark green, while polished nickel and chrome pair better with cooler blues and greys.

What worktop works best with shaker cabinetry?

Quartz is the most popular choice because it offers consistent patterning and needs little maintenance. Pale quartz lifts darker cabinets, while lightly veined or marble-effect surfaces add interest to plain painted doors. Natural stone and timber suit country-influenced designs but require more upkeep.

Can you mix two colours in a shaker kitchen?

Yes, and it is one of the most effective ways to modernise the style. The usual approach is lighter wall and base cabinets with a deeper colour on the island or a run of tall units. Keeping a single worktop material throughout ties the two tones together.

Create a Shaker Kitchen Designed Around Your Home

The enduring appeal of shaker cabinetry comes from its simplicity. It provides a strong design foundation without dictating exactly how the finished room must look.

At Mayfair Kitchen Studio, every one of our shaker kitchens can be tailored through layout, cabinetry, colour, worktops, hardware and internal storage, so the finished room responds to the proportions of the property and the way you use it each day.

For a completely individual result, our bespoke kitchen design service takes a project from first ideas and visualisations through to manufacture, installation and finishing.

Contact Mayfair Kitchens to arrange a design consultation and start exploring the shaker kitchen ideas that could work in your home.

Most bespoke kitchen projects take 8 to 16 weeks from final design approval to completed installation. Once you include the initial consultation, design development, revisions and final specification, it is sensible to begin planning 12 to 20 weeks before you would like the kitchen finished.

The precise timescale depends on the size of your kitchen, the complexity of the design, the materials and appliances selected, and whether the project involves structural changes or extensive preparation work.

Unlike an off-the-shelf kitchen, a bespoke kitchen design in Cheshire and Wirral is created around your property, lifestyle and individual requirements. Every detail must be considered before cabinetry is manufactured and installation begins. That planning takes time, but it is what produces a kitchen that feels natural to use and is built to last.

On this page

• The bespoke kitchen timeline, stage by stage
• What can make a bespoke kitchen take longer?
• When should you order a kitchen for Christmas 2026?
• How to keep your kitchen project on schedule
• Is a bespoke kitchen worth the additional time?
• Frequently asked questions

The Bespoke Kitchen Timeline, Stage by Stage

Although every project differs, the complete journey usually breaks down as follows.

Some stages overlap. Preparation work often begins while cabinetry and appliances are in production. Others must happen in sequence, particularly where stone worktops need templating after the base cabinets have been fitted.

A straightforward project may therefore move from approval to completion in 8 to 12 weeks. More detailed kitchens, extensive renovations and projects involving building work should be allowed longer.

Stage One – Consultation and Design Brief: 1-2 Weeks

The opening stage usually takes 1 to 2 weeks. How quickly it moves depends largely on how prepared you arrive and how many layout directions you want explored.

Arriving with rough measurements, inspiration images or a written list of priorities can compress this stage considerably. Arriving with an open mind is equally valid, it simply means allowing a little longer to explore the options properly.

The conversation covers how you use the room, what is not working in the existing kitchen, and the storage, appliances and finishes you have in mind. Our bespoke kitchen design service sets out what happens at each point of that consultation in more detail.

Stage Two – Design Development and Revisions: 2-4 Weeks

Design development generally takes 2 to 4 weeks. Detailed projects, or those where several layouts are being compared, can take longer.

This is where time is best spent. Adjusting a layout during planning costs nothing. Adjusting it after cabinetry has entered production costs both money and weeks.

What extends this stage is rarely the drawing itself, it is decision-making. Worktop materials, door styles, handles and appliance specifications all need resolving before a design can be finalised. Our guide to kitchen layouts, materials and worktops covers those choices in detail, and reading it before your second design meeting will usually save a revision round.

Visualisation helps. Advanced design software and hand-drawn perspective illustrations from our in-house kitchen artist both give you a way to judge a layout before committing to it. If you are still weighing up shaker, contemporary or traditional cabinetry, settle that question early, it affects lead times as well as appearance.

Stage Three – Technical Survey and Final Specification: 1-2 Weeks

Once the preferred design is agreed, accurate measurements and technical details are confirmed. This normally takes 1 to 2 weeks.

The survey may identify practical considerations that affect the final layout: uneven walls, ceiling heights, window positions, existing plumbing, electrical supplies or ventilation requirements. Where these require design changes, expect the stage to run to the longer end of the range.

If building work is planned, the kitchen design must also align with the architectural and construction programme. Any changes to walls, doorways, windows or services should be agreed before cabinetry is manufactured.

The final specification confirms cabinet dimensions, door and drawer configurations, appliance models, worktop materials and profiles, sink and tap selections, internal storage, lighting and electrical requirements, installation responsibilities and the anticipated installation date.

Stage Four – Cabinet Manufacture and Ordering: 4-8 Weeks

Manufacture and product ordering typically take 4 to 8 weeks. Specialist finishes, handmade details and certain appliances may require longer.

Bespoke cabinetry is made for the individual room rather than selected from a range of standard-sized units, which is what allows awkward spaces, unusual proportions and specific storage requirements to be addressed properly.

The following push a project towards the longer end of the range, or beyond it:

• Hand-painted or specialist cabinet finishes
• Unusual timber or veneer selections
• Bespoke door profiles and joinery
• Imported or made-to-order appliances
• Custom metalwork or hardware
• Natural stone and specialist worktops
• Seasonal demand and supplier availability

This is why appliances, finishes and key materials should be selected as early as possible. A single delayed component can hold up the entire installation schedule.

Stage Five – Room Preparation: 1-4 Weeks

Preparation can take anywhere from 1 to 4 weeks, and in most projects it runs alongside manufacture rather than after it.

A straightforward replacement, removing the existing kitchen, adjusting services, plastering and decorating, sits at the shorter end. Removing walls, completing an extension or relocating the kitchen to another part of the property will take considerably longer and needs to be scheduled against the wider building programme.

Our guide to planning a kitchen renovation in Cheshire covers what preparation involves in practice. Mayfair Kitchens can manage as much or as little of this as required, organising the relevant trades to reduce disruption.

Stage Six – Installation and Finishing: 2-3 Weeks

The main installation typically takes 2 to 3 weeks. Larger or more complicated projects may take longer.

Cabinetry is positioned and fitted, appliances installed, services connected and finishing details completed. Where quartz, granite or another templated surface is used, the worktop is measured after the base cabinets are in place, then manufactured to the confirmed dimensions and fitted during a later visit. Allow an additional 1 to 3 weeks for that sequence.

A bespoke installation can involve kitchen fitters, electricians, plumbers, plasterers, decorators, builders, worktop fabricators and flooring specialists. Careful coordination matters: a clear schedule ensures each trade arrives at the right stage and that one part of the work does not hold up another.

What Can Make a Bespoke Kitchen Take Longer?

Several factors can extend a project beyond the initial estimate.

Structural work

Removing walls, creating new openings or building an extension adds time before the kitchen can be installed. Building regulations, structural calculations and planning considerations may also need addressing.

Specialist materials

Natural stone, bespoke joinery, handcrafted finishes and made-to-order components carry longer lead times than standard products.

Appliance availability

Premium and specialist appliances should be selected early. Availability varies, particularly for newly launched or highly specified models.

Changes after approval

Changing the layout, appliances or cabinetry after the kitchen has entered production affects cost as well as timing.

Period and character properties

Older homes across Chester, Cheshire and the Wirral often contain uneven walls, unusual angles and original architectural features. These qualities make a property distinctive, but they require additional measuring, preparation and bespoke fitting.

Seasonal demand

Manufacturers and installation teams are busiest in the months before Christmas. Anyone working towards a fixed completion date should begin planning early.

When Should You Order a Kitchen for Christmas 2026?

To have a bespoke kitchen installed before Christmas 2026, begin the design process during July or August, with the design and specification approved by early autumn.

Starting later does not automatically rule out a pre-Christmas installation. A straightforward replacement has a shorter programme than a full renovation. But availability tightens as installation diaries fill and supplier deadlines approach.

October is generally too late to rely on a guaranteed Christmas completion for a highly bespoke or structurally complex project.

If Christmas is your deadline, contact the Mayfair Kitchens team as early as possible. We can review the scope and tell you honestly whether the date is realistic before detailed planning begins.

How to Keep Your Kitchen Project on Schedule

You cannot control every supplier or site condition, but good preparation reduces the risk of avoidable delay.

• Begin planning early. Allow more time than you think you need, particularly where the project includes building work or must be finished for a specific date.
• Decide on appliances early. Appliance dimensions influence cabinetry, ventilation, electrical supplies and plumbing. Selecting late causes design changes.
• Confirm your budget. A clear budget lets your designer recommend suitable materials and specifications without repeatedly redesigning the project.
• Avoid late design changes. Take the time you need before approving the final design. Once manufacture begins, changing cabinet sizes or finishes is difficult.
• Coordinate building work carefully. Ensure construction, plastering, electrics and plumbing are scheduled around the agreed installation programme.
• Discuss fixed deadlines at the outset. Tell your designer immediately if the kitchen must be complete before Christmas, a house move or another fixed date.

Is a Bespoke Kitchen Worth the Additional Time?

A bespoke kitchen takes longer than buying standard cabinets because the design is developed for one particular home and one particular household.

The benefit is control; over layout, storage, materials, finishes and architectural detail. Instead of adapting your needs to a standard range, the cabinetry is adapted to you.

Mayfair Kitchen Studio has been designing and installing kitchens since 1983, combining experienced design guidance with handmade craftsmanship and carefully managed installation. Every kitchen is backed by our 5-year Mayfair guarantee, and our aftercare continues well beyond it.

The process should never feel rushed. A well-planned kitchen is an investment intended to work beautifully for many years, which makes the time spent on the details worthwhile.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does a bespoke kitchen take from the first consultation?

A complete bespoke kitchen journey usually takes 12 to 20 weeks from first consultation to completion. The timeframe depends on the number of design revisions, product availability, manufacturing requirements and the amount of preparation work involved.

How long does it take to manufacture bespoke kitchen cabinets?

Bespoke cabinet manufacture typically takes 4 to 8 weeks after the final design and specification have been approved. Handmade finishes or unusual materials may require longer.

How long does it take to fit a new kitchen?

The main fitting stage commonly takes 2 to 3 weeks. Larger kitchens, extensive building work and templated stone worktops can extend the overall installation period by a further 1 to 3 weeks.

Can I remain at home while my kitchen is installed?

In most cases, yes. There will be periods when the kitchen cannot be used normally. Your installer should explain which facilities remain available and help you prepare for the disruption.

Can a bespoke kitchen be completed more quickly?

Some straightforward projects can be completed in a shorter timescale. This depends on design approval, manufacturing capacity, product availability and the installation diary. Rushing important decisions tends to create problems later.

When should I start planning for a Christmas kitchen installation?

For a bespoke kitchen completed before Christmas, begin planning during July or August and aim to approve the design by early autumn, particularly if the project involves specialist finishes or building work.

Does an extension make the kitchen project take longer?

Yes. The installation must be coordinated with the construction programme, including structural work, windows, doors, services, plastering and flooring. The kitchen itself can often be designed while the extension progresses.

What is the biggest cause of kitchen delays?

Late design changes, unavailable appliances, incomplete building work and specialist material lead times are the most common causes. Early decisions and careful coordination significantly reduce the risk.

Start Planning Your Bespoke Kitchen

A realistic schedule is one of the foundations of a successful kitchen renovation.

Whether you are planning a straightforward replacement, renovating a period property or creating a new open-plan kitchen extension, Mayfair Kitchens can guide you from first design through to final installation. Explore our bespoke kitchen designs or visit us in person.

Visit the Cheshire Oaks showroom in Chester, arrange an appointment at our Tarporley showroom, or contact the team to discuss your plans and preferred completion date.

A kitchen renovation is one of the most rewarding projects you can undertake in your home. Done well, it transforms your daily routine, adds significant value to your property, and creates a space your whole household will enjoy. But it is also a complex project with many moving parts — and the more prepared you are before work begins, the smoother the experience will be.

Whether you are updating an outdated kitchen in a Victorian terrace in Chester or creating a stunning open-plan kitchen in a modern Wirral home, here are seven things every homeowner should know before starting a kitchen renovation.

1. Define How You Use Your Kitchen — Before You Think About Looks

Before you fall in love with a particular door colour or worktop material, spend time thinking about how your kitchen actually functions. Ask yourself:

• How many people cook at the same time?
• Do you need a large island for socialising, or is workspace more important?
• How much storage do you actually need — and what is always overflowing in your current kitchen?
• Do you want appliances integrated behind cabinet doors, or are you happy with them visible?

The answers to these questions should drive the design. A kitchen that looks stunning but does not work for your lifestyle will frustrate you every single day.

2. Set a Realistic Budget — and Build in a Contingency

Kitchen renovations vary enormously in cost depending on size, materials, appliances, and the extent of building works required. It is important to set a budget before you begin — and to include a contingency of at least 10 to 15 per cent for unexpected costs.

When getting quotes, make sure you are comparing like for like. A full-service quote that includes design, supply, installation, project management, and all trades is very different from a supply-only quote where you then need to arrange and coordinate every contractor yourself.

3. Consider the Scope of Structural Work Early

Many kitchen renovations involve more than simply swapping out units. Knocking through a wall to create an open-plan layout, moving plumbing to relocate a sink or dishwasher, rewiring for new appliance positions, or installing underfloor heating all require specialist trades and, in some cases, building regulations approval.

The earlier you identify what structural work is needed, the better you can plan the sequence of the project and avoid costly surprises mid-renovation.

4. Choose Materials That Match Your Lifestyle, Not Just Your Inspiration Board

It is easy to be seduced by a glossy finish or a beautiful marble-effect worktop in a showroom. But before you commit, think honestly about how demanding your household is on surfaces.

• High-gloss cabinet fronts look stunning but show fingerprints in a family kitchen.
• Natural stone worktops are beautiful but require sealing and careful maintenance.
• Painted timber cabinetry adds warmth and character but may need touching up over time.

Your kitchen designer should help you navigate these trade-offs honestly, matching materials to your real life rather than simply to an aesthetic ideal.

5. Plan Your Lighting Properly — It Is Often an Afterthought

Lighting is one of the most overlooked elements of a kitchen renovation, yet it makes an enormous difference to both the practicality and the atmosphere of the space. A well-lit kitchen needs three layers:

• Task lighting: under-cabinet lights that illuminate your worktops for food preparation.
• Ambient lighting: the main overhead lighting that fills the room.
• Accent lighting: inside glass-fronted cabinets, above plinths, or over an island to create atmosphere.

Decide on your lighting plan before plastering and first fix electrics, not as a final afterthought when the ceiling is finished.

6. Understand the Project Timeline — and Plan Around It

A full kitchen renovation typically takes anywhere from one to three weeks on site, depending on the complexity of the project. During this time, your kitchen will be unusable. Think in advance about how you will manage meals, and make sure your designer gives you a clear programme of works so you know what to expect and when.

The key to a smooth timeline is coordination. When one company manages the full project — scheduling joiners, plumbers, electricians, and plasterers in the right sequence — delays are minimised. When you are coordinating multiple contractors yourself, a single delay from one trade can cause a cascade of disruption.

7. Choose a Kitchen Company, Not Just a Kitchen

Perhaps the most important decision you will make is who you trust to deliver your renovation. A kitchen is not a product you simply buy — it is a project delivered by people. The relationship you have with your designer and installer matters enormously.

Look for a company that:

• Takes time to understand your home and your needs before designing anything.
• Is transparent about costs, timelines, and what is included.
• Has a proven track record of completed projects and genuine customer reviews.
• Provides a single point of contact who manages the whole project on your behalf.
• Offers genuine aftercare when the job is done.

Let Mayfair Kitchens Help You Get It Right

At Mayfair Kitchens, we have been guiding homeowners across Chester, Wirral, Cheshire, and the North West through every stage of the kitchen renovation process. From initial design consultation through to full installation and aftercare, our team coordinates everything — so you can enjoy the transformation without the stress.

Visit our showrooms in Cheshire or Wirral to see our work in person, or call us on 0151 644 9100 to arrange your free consultation. Your dream kitchen is closer than you think.

A new kitchen is one of the most significant investments you will make in your home. It is the heart of daily life, the backdrop for family gatherings, and a space that should reflect your personality as much as it serves your practical needs. If you are considering a bespoke kitchen in Chester, Wirral, or the wider Cheshire and North West region, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know before you begin.

What Is a Bespoke Kitchen — and Why Does It Matter?

Unlike off-the-shelf kitchen units you might find at a large retailer, a bespoke kitchen is designed and built specifically around your home, your space, and the way you live. Every dimension, material choice, and finish is tailored to you.

This matters for several reasons:

• No two homes are identical. Standard units often leave awkward gaps, wasted corners, or compromises around existing architecture. A bespoke design makes the most of every inch.
• Your lifestyle shapes your kitchen. Whether you are an avid cook who needs a professional-grade range and generous prep surfaces, or a busy family that needs robust storage and easy-clean finishes, a bespoke approach builds the kitchen around you rather than forcing you to adapt to it.
• The quality is simply different. Handmade cabinetry, solid materials, and expert craftsmanship result in a kitchen that looks better and lasts far longer than flatpack alternatives.

Choosing a Style: From Modern to Country

One of the first conversations you will have with your kitchen designer is about style. The good news is that bespoke kitchens span the full range — from sleek, handleless contemporary designs to warm, characterful Shaker and country-style kitchens. Here are the broad categories to consider:

Modern and Contemporary

Clean lines, integrated appliances, and minimal ornamentation define this look. Handleless doors, gloss or matte lacquered finishes, and quartz or composite worktops are common choices. This style suits open-plan living areas and homes with a more architectural feel.

Shaker and Traditional

The Shaker style remains one of the most enduringly popular choices in British homes, and for good reason. Its simple, recessed-panel door brings warmth and timeless elegance without feeling fussy. Painted in soft heritage tones or classic whites, a Shaker kitchen works equally well in a period property in Chester as in a modern new-build in the Wirral.

Country and Farmhouse

For those who want a kitchen full of character, the country style — with its in-frame cabinetry, Belfast sinks, and natural stone or timber worktops — creates an inviting, lived-in atmosphere that feels both beautiful and functional.

Materials and Worktops: Making the Right Choice

Your worktop choice will define much of the kitchen’s look and feel, and it needs to stand up to daily use. The most popular options include:

• Quartz: Engineered for durability, quartz is non-porous, scratch-resistant, and available in a huge range of colours and finishes. It is low-maintenance and ideal for busy households.
• Granite: A natural stone with unique veining and movement in every slab. Granite adds a premium, one-of-a-kind quality to any kitchen.
• Timber: Warm and characterful, solid wood worktops are perfect for country-style kitchens. They do require regular oiling but reward that care with a beautiful, improving surface over time.

What to Look for in a Kitchen Designer

Choosing the right kitchen designer is just as important as choosing the right style. Here is what to consider:

• Do they listen? A great designer will spend time understanding your lifestyle, your family’s needs, and how you actually use your kitchen, before they begin designing.
• Can they project-manage the whole process? A kitchen renovation involves multiple trades: joiners, plumbers, electricians, plasterers, and worktop suppliers. Look for a company that coordinates all of this for you, reducing stress and minimising delays.
• What does their aftercare look like? The relationship should not end on installation day. Snags happen, and a reputable kitchen company will resolve them promptly.
• Do they have a showroom? Visiting a showroom lets you see quality and craftsmanship in person, feel door finishes and hardware, and speak to designers face to face. It is an essential step.

Why Mayfair Kitchens?

Mayfair Kitchens has been creating luxury, handmade kitchens for homeowners across Chester, Wirral, Cheshire, and the wider North West for many years. With kitchen showrooms in both Cheshire and Wirral, our award-winning designers will guide you from first ideas through to a completed kitchen you will love for decades.

We take care of as much or as little as you need — from design and supply through to full installation, project management, and aftercare. Our team coordinates every trade required, so you have a single point of contact throughout the process.

Ready to Start Your Kitchen Journey?

Visit one of our showrooms in Cheshire or Wirral, or call us on 0151 644 9100 to arrange a free design consultation. We would love to bring your dream kitchen to life.